why passionate about surfing?

[noosasurfing]

hi guys,
i am a student from germany and i am currently doing some research on surfers. therefore i would really appreciate your help and contribution!
basically, i just need to know why you love surfing so much?? what makes it so special for you?
furthermore, it would be great to know how important surfing is to you (for australians). is it just a sport or is a certain attitude/culture/lifestyle connected with it? if yes, how does it look like?
if you could answer those questions for me, it would be just great!!
thanks for your help already,
greetings from germany

[Danoz]

Its a lifestyle for me, i have grown up on the coast and would simply be leading an empty life i f i was unable to surf. Its an amazing thrill surfing, its addictive thats for sure and nothing i have done rivals how humbling it can be.

[starfang]

"Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave." -Paul Walker

That's exactly how I feel!

[Danoz]

Yea that is very true, when you surf and the waves are good you think about nothing else except surfing