dropping down the face of bigger waves!!

[chizz]

I've been surfing for about 6 months, i'm 33 so very late starting but fit as i run swim and cycle, I'm tall ( 6'4" ) so dont balance as easy as shorter guys but i'm getting the hang of it, on smaller waves i can get up ok if a little slowly and i've just started going into waves and taking off on the angle to go along them, my problem is, when i go for larger waves i'm paddling but by the time i get on my feet i'm on the very top edge of a 4 to 6ft breaking wave and just plummet down the face and get worked, its really starting to get on my nerves as i just dont know what i'm doing wrong so cant fix it. help!!!
i'm riding a 7ft byrne toughlite, very bouyant, maybe a litlle short.

[DaneAU]

Well, perhaps stick to smaller waves lol. You need to have far better balance and skills on bigger waves. You need to get up quickly and get down the face or get moving fast. If you are getting up and staying at the top - get sucked over the falls and worked its because you are not really committed to the wave. You can't chicken out on 'bigger' waves - if you go it you have to really go it